Our new companions from Israel had a difficult time riding up the passes on their Enfield, which turn out to lack the power to carry them both on the ascents, so I offered Aya a place in the car with Edod driving ahead on the bike, which was funny because it almost gave us the feeling of driving in a motorcade. Beyond Ani the road lead through lush pine and deodar forests and although we wanted to cover as much distance today as possible, it was to tempting to stop for a coffee & cigarette break. That view had to be enjoyed slowly.
Neither could I help myself to secretly envy Edod for his bike. I didn't talk about this to Soni because it would have broken his heart to know that there are thing even more beautiful than his beloved Mahindra Scorpio.
But the best part came when we arrived to the Jalori pass between Kullu and the Sutlej valley where suddenly the whole Great Himalayan Range stretched out far on the horizont beyond the Kullu hills, with the skyline gently rising towards the east. I mean: this landscape is not tilted. It's just that God didn't use a ruler when he created the world.)
Among the ugly concrete buildings in Kullu valley, usually having an advertisement painted on them for concrete from which even more ugly buildings could be built, occasionally we glimpsed the odd traditional house with drying apricots in the courtyard; they reminded us to how beautiful these villages must have been before cheap and boring concrete was introduced.
Rest of the day spent with trying to contact Aya, who besides the helmet only left her email address so I couldn't call her, and I wanted her to get the helmet back because driving a bike in Inda is hazardous enough but without helmet, it's only for the suicidical which Aya definitely didn't seem to be...